Sat antenna

Quick and dirty, just to have something here.

Different Antennas

Not all satellite antennas are using a parabolic dish. Satellite phones for example. For TV though, one always uses a parabolic dish.

The parabolic dish is shaped to focus the signal from the satellite. It can be used to focus any "signal", like sound, light, FM radio signal and so forth. All telescopes and binoculars, as well as most sound focusing equipment (like they often use from the sideline on football matches) uses the same principle. It is used for satellite signals due to the fact that it is really needed. If i recall correctly, the free space loss of signal from the satellite is over 300dB, or 1 followed by thirty zeroes. In other words, the signal is really weak.

The formula to make a parabolic y=x^2 (wish the formula editing thingy worked)

There are two major types of parabolic dishes:

The classic antenna which focuses the signals to the center of the antenna. This antenna uses the center of a parabolic arch for designing the dish. The signals are focused at the center of the antenna, and one usually has three rods extending out to the point where the signals are focused. This is where one puts the LNB. This is used for most professional installations, and virtually every antenna with diameter above 4 meters is of this type.

The offset antenna. The offset is a part of a parabolic arch as all parabolic dishes are, but by using the side of the arch rather than the center of the arch, one get an antenna that is easier to assemble, and the antenna has a lower elevation, which gives less problems with dirt, snow and other stuff ending up in the antenna. you also avoid having rods running trough the signal path to the dish as the LNB is usually connected to a single rod from the side of the antenna.

LNB/LNC

LNB/LNC, or Low Noise Block Converter, is the unit you put where the signals from a parabolic dish is focused. It recieves the signals from the satellite, and converts them from a jaw dropping 10+GHz (Ku band) or 3+GHz (C band) to a more manageable L band ~950MHz to ~2100MHz. Some say that L band is less than 1550MHz, and some say 2500MHz. Wikipedia uses the word "roughly".

The reason it is called a Block Converter, is that is takes a frequency block, and converts it down to a different frequency band. The mixing frequency in a LNB can be anything, but the usual frequencies are 9750MHz and 10700MHz (Universal LNB). The frequencies one can receive will then be 9750MHz+950MHz to 9750MHz+2100MHz, and the same for 10700MHz mixing frequency. For other mixing frequencies, just change the 9750MHz number.

The LNB uses a very easy system to choose which mixing frequency to use. Since satellite operators want to utilize the frequency bands as efficiently as possible, you can also choose Vertical or Horizontal alignment (for C band it is circular polarisation, and you have Right Hand Circular Polarization, RHCP, and Left Hand, LHCP). This means that you have High and Low frequency band (for dual band LNBs. They also come in single band), and you have Vertical and Horizontal. A total of four different "positions". Low V, Low H, High V, High H. For larger installations, the LNB will have one output for each of them, and you have a diseqc switch that allows you to connect a virtually limitless number of tuners. The satellite tuner supplies the LNB with power, so that it can run the mixing frequencies circuits. The voltage that the tuner supplies chooses the polarization. 13V means Horizontal, 18V means Vertical. The tuner also supplies a 22kHz signal to choose what mixing frequency to use. One can also control a diseqc switch with this signal, so that a tuner can choose between multiple LNBs.

Finding the satellite

There are numerous ways of doing this. First though, you want to make sure that there are no buildings or trees between you and the satellite. Se below to help you find the direction.

The easiest way is using an instrument for this. It costs a bit, so you could try to do it without first. For digital reciever you want an free to air channel, cause the decryption of a channel makes it appear on the screen slower. Find one using lyngsat. You also want a compass. Using the Satellite Calculations page by Jens Sætre, you can find the direction the antenna is supposed to point azimuth (left/right) and the elevation (up/down). Using the compass and the calculations, as well as the elevation indicator on the antenna (if you cannot find one, look at other installations nearby for a hint) you should move it about SLOWLY until you get a picture.

Pointing the antenna

This is the part that most people, also the professional installer, fails. Pointing of the antenna is important for signal level and quality. The bigger the antenna, the more important it is to point it correctly.

Here are the problems:

-The antenna has a roll off. This means that if it is not spot on, but almost, there should be no problems, until you add the other problem. -The satellite is not stationary. It is situated in geostationary orbit, around 35786km above ground level, exactly above equator, which means that is is seriously affected by the suns gravity, the moons gravity, solar storms and so on.

These things causes the satellite to move about quite a bit. Seen from down here, it is not , but given a series of unfortunate events, it could be crucial for your satellite signal. Seen from earth, the satellite moves in a orbit shaped as a figure 8. It goes round the figure 8 once a day. What you need to do is to point the antenna while the satellite is in the centre of the 8. If you point the antenna at one of the extremes, and at the same time miss it a bit, you will will end up with much weaker signal at the opposite time of day. Several dB is easy. I have seen more than 10dB fluctuation on 1.2m antenna. That is 1/10 of what the signal level should have been.

Another unfortunate fact is that the satellite is "adjusted" every second week or so to compensate for all these forces moving it about. This means that there is not a specific time of day when the satellite is aligned correctly. You will have to calculate this. The reward though, is more stable TV signal, all day trough.

So, how to do it? You need ephemeris data, also called 11 parameters data. Intelsat has their here Intelsat Ephemeris data Intelsat is kind enough to supply centre of box data too, but not all satellite operators do this. The Satellite Calculations web page by Jens Sætre is great for this. Unfortunately you will have to input the 11 parameters yourself unless you use Internet Explorer, where you can upload the parameters as a text file. So, get ephemeris data from operator (if more than one satellite on that position, get the center most of them), input the data on the satellite calculations page, and calculate the centre of box times. Point your antenna at that time.

For offset antennas, you can gain most signal level adjusting the azimuth (left/right). For traditional antennas, it does not matter. First, adjust azimuth. Using the signal-meter, move one way. When it starts dropping, stop, mark the spot, and go the opposite way until you find the same signal value. mark the spot. The best signal level is in the middle between those spots. Do the same with elevation (up/down). Then again, do azimuth, just to be sure.